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Post-Emergent

Post-emergent herbicides kill weeds that have already germinated and are actively growing. Selective post-emergents target broadleaf weeds or grassy weeds without harming your turfgrass, while non-selective products kill everything they touch. Choosing the right product for your weed type and grass type is critical.

When to Apply

Post-emergent herbicide works best on young, actively growing weeds, so timing centers on the weed's growth stage rather than a strict calendar. For cool-season lawns, the two effective windows are spring (April–May) and fall (September–October), when temperatures sit between 60–80°F and weeds are putting on active growth. Warm-season lawns should be treated in late spring or early summer, while weeds are still small and actively growing rather than mature and stressed. In both cases, avoid applying above 85°F or when the lawn itself is drought-stressed — heat increases the risk of herbicide drift and turf damage, and stressed weeds absorb less product anyway. Treating weeds while they're small and actively growing requires less product, causes less collateral stress to the surrounding turf, and produces a more reliable kill than waiting until an infestation is fully established.

Cool-Season Grasses

Apply in spring (April–May) or fall (September–October) when weeds are actively growing and temperatures are between 60–80°F.

Warm-Season Grasses

Apply in late spring or early summer when warm-season weeds are small and actively growing.

Post-emergents are most effective on young, actively growing weeds in mild temperatures. Avoid applying in heat above 85°F or when grass is drought-stressed.

Why It Matters

  • Weeds compete directly with grass for water, nutrients, and light — a weed-heavy lawn thin out over time
  • Some weeds (nutsedge, wild violet, ground ivy) are very difficult to remove manually and require herbicide
  • Treating weeds while small requires less product and causes less stress to surrounding turf
  • Post-emergent in fall removes weeds that would otherwise overwinter and re-seed in spring

How to Apply

  1. 1Identify your weed before selecting a product — broadleaf herbicides (2,4-D, dicamba, triclopyr) kill dandelions and clover but won't touch grassy weeds like crabgrass
  2. 2For grassy weeds like crabgrass or nutsedge, you need a product specifically labeled for that species (e.g., Drive XLR8 for crabgrass, Sedgehammer for nutsedge)
  3. 3Apply when weeds are actively growing and soil is moist — wilted or drought-stressed weeds won't absorb herbicide effectively
  4. 4Do not mow for 2–3 days before and after application — leaf surface area is needed for absorption
  5. 5Check the label for grass type compatibility: some products are not safe on St. Augustine, centipede, or newly seeded lawns

Common Mistakes

Applying in high heat (above 85°F)
Heat makes herbicide more volatile and can cause it to drift onto desirable plants. It also stresses the grass, increasing the chance of herbicide damage. Apply in early morning on a calm day.
Using a non-selective (glyphosate) when a selective herbicide would do
Non-selective herbicides kill everything, including your grass. Only use them for spot-treating isolated patches where you're willing to reseed.
Expecting one application to eliminate perennial weeds
Perennial weeds like dandelions and ground ivy often require 2–3 applications spaced 2–3 weeks apart for complete control.
Applying before rain
Rain within 24 hours of application washes the herbicide off leaf surfaces before it's absorbed. Check the forecast.

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